Many Imported Olive Oils Fail Quality Tests

That premium extra-virgin olive oil you shelled out a little extra for may not be quite as premium as you'd hoped, according to a second study released yesterday by the UC Davis Olive Center and the Australian Oils Research Laboratory.

According to the report, researchers found that five of the top-selling imported "extra virgin" olive oil brands in the U.S. were inconsistent, and that 73 percent of the samples tested failed sensory standards, which indicated they were of poor quality or had been adulterated with cheaper refined oils like canola, seed or nut oils.

The Los Angeles Times reports that the brands tested included Filippo Berio, Bertolli, Pompeian, Colavita and Star.

It's the second study released by the groups in the last year. The first was published last summer, but drew heavy criticism for small sample sizing, unknown storage conditions and testing methods. And already, the current report is coming under attack by the North American Olive Oil Association, which represents marketers, packagers and importers of olive oil.

"Consumers can continue to trust the quality of the imported olive oils they buy in supermarkets throughout the United States, contrary to what the authors of a report funded by a small contingent of domestic oil producers would like them to believe," the release says.
But Patricia Darragh, executive director of the California Olive Oil Council told Slashfood that the new study used two International Olive Council (IOC) recognized panels and extended the original study by using more samples of each brand. The first study analyzed 52 samples of 14 brands. The current study looked at 134 samples from eight producers.

"The results were similar," says Darragh. "What that means for consumers is they need to read the labels very carefully. There are a lot of good olive oils produced throughout the world, but consumers need to check the labels."

By definition, extra virgin olive oil (EVOO) is the highest quality of olive oil. While it can vary in taste and color, to be labeled extra virgin, it must meet standards set by the IOC. The issue around olive oil purity has been heating up. In October, the USDA updated olive oil standards for the first time since 1948.

It has also been getting serious attention in California, which produces 99 percent of the olives grown in the U.S. Earlier this month, the California Senate Health Committee approved a bill introduced by Sen. Lois Wolk tightening the standards for what can be labeled "extra virgin" in California, and will impact what is brought into or sold in the state should it eventually be approved by the legislature and be signed by the governor.