Source:NY times
Scott Eklund/Seattle Post-Intelligencer, via Associated Press
GREEN THUMBS Workers at an organic farm in Carnation, Wash., tend to baby romaine lettuce.
MAINSTREAM More grocery stores are stocking organic foods.
“People believe it must be better for you if it’s organic,” says
Phil Howard, an assistant professor of community, food and agriculture
at
Michigan State University.
So I discovered on a recent book tour around the United States and Canada.
No
matter how carefully I avoided using the word “organic” when I spoke to
groups of food enthusiasts about how to eat better, someone in the
audience would inevitably ask, “What if I can’t afford to buy organic
food?” It seems to have become the magic cure-all, synonymous with
eating well, healthfully, sanely, even ethically.
But eating
“organic” offers no guarantee of any of that. And the truth is that most
Americans eat so badly — we get 7 percent of our
calories
from soft drinks, more than we do from vegetables; the top food group
by caloric intake is “sweets”; and one-third of nation’s adults are now
obese — that the organic question is a secondary one. It’s not
unimportant, but it’s not the primary issue in the way Americans eat.
To eat well, says
Michael Pollan, the author of
“In Defense of Food,”
means avoiding “edible food-like substances” and sticking to real
ingredients, increasingly from the plant kingdom. (Americans each
consume an average of nearly two pounds a day of animal products.)
There’s plenty of evidence that both a person’s health — as well as the
environment’s — will improve with a simple shift in eating habits away
from animal products and highly processed foods to plant products and
what might be called “real food.” (With all due respect to people in the
“food movement,” the food need not be “slow,” either.)
From
these changes, Americans would reduce the amount of land, water and
chemicals used to produce the food we eat, as well as the incidence of
lifestyle diseases linked to unhealthy diets, and greenhouse gases from
industrial meat production. All without legislation.
And the food would not necessarily have to be organic, which, under the
United States Department of Agriculture’s definition, means it is generally free of synthetic substances; contains no
antibiotics and hormones; has not been
irradiated or fertilized with sewage sludge; was raised without the use of most conventional
pesticides; and contains no genetically modified ingredients.
Those
requirements, which must be met in order for food to be labeled
“U.S.D.A. Organic,” are fine, of course. But they still fall short of
the lofty dreams of early organic farmers and consumers who gave the
word “organic” its allure — of returning natural nutrients and substance
to the soil in the same proportion used by the growing process (there
is no requirement that this be done); of raising animals humanely in
accordance with nature (animals must be given access to the outdoors,
but for how long and under what conditions is not spelled out); and of
producing the most nutritious food possible (the evidence is mixed on
whether organic food is more nutritious) in the most ecologically
conscious way.
The government’s organic program, says Joan
Shaffer, a spokeswoman for the Agriculture Department, “is a marketing
program that sets standards for what can be certified as organic.
Neither the enabling legislation nor the regulations address
food safety or
nutrition.”
People
don’t understand that, nor do they realize “organic” doesn’t mean
“local.” “It doesn’t matter if it’s from the farm down the road or from
Chile,” Ms. Shaffer said. “As long as it meets the standards it’s
organic.”
Hence, the organic status of salmon flown in from Chile,
or of frozen vegetables grown in China and sold in the United States —
no matter the size of the carbon footprint left behind by getting from
there to here.
Today, most farmers who practice truly sustainable
farming, or what you might call “organic in spirit,” operate on small
scale, some so small they can’t afford the requirements to be certified
organic by the government. Others say that certification isn’t
meaningful enough to bother. These farmers argue that, “When you buy
organic you don’t just buy a product, you buy a way of life that is
committed to not exploiting the planet,” says Ed Maltby, executive
director of the Northeast Organic Dairy Producers Alliance.
But
the organic food business is now big business, and getting bigger.
Professor Howard estimates that major corporations now are responsible
for at least 25 percent of all organic manufacturing and marketing (40
percent if you count only processed organic foods). Much of the nation’s
organic food is as much a part of industrial food production as
midwinter grapes, and becoming more so. In 2006, sales of organic foods
and beverages totaled about $16.7 billion, according to the most recent
figures from Organic Trade Association.
Still, those sales
amounted to slightly less than 3 percent of overall food and beverage
sales. For all the hoo-ha, organic food is not making much of an impact
on the way Americans eat, though, as Mark Kastel, co-founder of The
Cornucopia Institute, puts it: “There are generic benefits from doing
organics. It protects the land from the ravages of conventional
agriculture,” and safeguards farm workers from being exposed to
pesticides.
But the questions remain over how we eat in general.
It may feel better to eat an organic Oreo than a conventional Oreo, but,
says Marion Nestle, a professor at
New York University’s department of nutrition, food studies and public health, “Organic junk food is still junk food.”
Last week,
Michelle Obama
began digging up a patch of the South Lawn of the White House to plant
an organic vegetable garden to provide food for the first family and,
more important, to educate children about healthy, locally grown fruits
and vegetables at a time when
obesity and
diabetes have become national concerns.
But
Mrs. Obama also emphasized that there were many changes Americans can
make if they don’t have the time or space for an organic garden.
“You
can begin in your own cupboard,” she said, “by eliminating processed
food, trying to cook a meal a little more often, trying to incorporate
more fruits and vegetables.”
Popularizing such choices may not be
as marketable as creating a logo that says “organic.” But when Americans
have had their fill of “value-added” and overprocessed food, perhaps
they can begin producing and consuming more food that treats animals and
the land as if they mattered. Some of that food will be organic, and
hooray for that. Meanwhile, they should remember that the word itself is
not synonymous with “safe,” “healthy,” “fair” or even necessarily
“good.”